Dolittle Tiny Chihuahuas

Chihuahua Breed History:

Up until its time of development as a pure breed in the United States, the origin of the long-coated version of the Chihuahua is identical to that of the short-coated variety. The long, soft coat is thought to have been achieved by crossbreeding the Short Coat Chihuahua with other Toy breeds. Some say the Papillon, Pomeranian, Pekingese or Yorkshire Terrier, these have been suggested as possible crosses.

Chihuahua Breed Description:

Coat: In the Smooth Coat Chihuahua, the coat should be short and soft in texture, close and glossy.

Soft in texture, the long coat is either flat or slightly curly. The ears are fringed and there's a ruff on the neck. Feathering is found on the feet and legs and a plumed tail finishes the picture.

Color: Any color is permitted in the Chihuahua breed.

Chihuahua Breed Temperament:

Chihuahua Breed Exercise Requirements:

Chihuahua Breed Grooming Requirements:

Life Expectancy: 12 to 19 years and some live even longer

Good with Children: Better suited for older, well behaved children (8 years of age and older)

Dog Breed Group: Toy Group  Size Group: Toy

Other Commonly Used Names: Tea Cup Chihuahuas, Toy Chihuahuas, Teacup Chihuahua, Chiwawa, Chi, Tea-Cup, Standard Chihuahua, Mini Chihuahuas, Micro Chihuahuas.

Health problems known in Chihuahuas and other Tiny toy breed dogs

Many very small puppies die by being given a whole dosage of a shot or wormer for a larger size puppy than the tiny puppy cant handle for a body that’s under one to two pounds. We suggest asking your vet about a half of a dosage of it's shots till the pups reaches 2-lb or over?, Plus never let your vet give Lepto with the puppies shots, it's been know to kill many tiny toy breed of puppies. Once after your puppy reaches 2 lbs then and only then after that can you give a full shot to your pup and if your vet feels its safe for Lepto. Also our vet suggests to give one mil. of benadriel before each puppy shot till its an adult.

Dog wagging Tail Tips: Your Dog’s Anal Glands

Expressing a dog’s anal glands manually can be done by your groomer or your veterinarian. To save the expense, many pet parents do the job themselves. Expressing anal glands is just the type of doggie-human bonding you’ve always dreamed of! Okay, maybe not. But, you get really up close and personal with your pup’s behind. Consult with your veterinarian and have he or she teach you to do this at least one time before attempting it on your own.

The process of expressing your dog’s anal glands goes more or less as follows:

 1. Raise your pooch’s tail and locate the anal glands

 2. Using a warm towel, tissue, or gloves place your thumb and forefinger below the glands and push in and upwards while squeezing

 3. The gland fluids should empty onto the tissue, expect a foul smell when the fluids squirt out

 
Though your dog can potentially express his own impacted glands by scooting across the carpet, you will most likely want to avoid this. If expressing isn’t performed by a human, your pooch might express in unexpected areas like your carpet, couch
 Because the fluid smells so strongly it might leave behind very unpleasant odors in all the wrong places. Expressing the glands yourself will allow you to better control the situation. How often you express your dog’s anal glands depends entirely on your dog.
Every dog is different and one dog might need it done every two weeks, while others might need it done once and never again.Either way, it’s important to stay vigilant and watch for your dog’s booty mannerisms. If impacted glands are left untreated they can lead
 to abscesses that can rupture. When the anal glands are infected it means that bacteria made its way to the glands via the ducts that connect them to the rectal opening. At this point, you must absolutely contact your veterinarian since he will most likely have
to drain the anal glands with a minor surgery and prescribe your dog some antibiotics. Note: This happens in all dogs, some more than others so it is something to watch your doogie for when it becomes an adult dog. See the dog pic below on where you place your hands when doing it yourself, plus below that there is a video from Utube.

Kindergarten for Puppies Early training classes start puppies off right

By Jennifer Quasha

Puppy kindergarten is nursery school for dogs. Just as children delight in playing with friends, being social, and learning basic behaviors, puppies do, too. Puppy kindergarten is the first step in obedience training classes that begins when your puppy has all of her shots, at around 12 weeks of age. 

There are three important components to puppy kindergarten. 

First, as a dog owner, you will learn more about your puppy  what to expect from her at this age and how to best work with her for your desired result. Secondly, your puppy will learn how to walk on a leash and basic commands, such as Sit and Come. The third, and most crucial reason to take your pup to kindergarten, is socialization. 

"Socialization is critical," says Chris Onthank, a dog trainer in Norwalk, Conn. "You want to expose your dog to as many sights, sounds, smells, and surfaces as possible." 

Puppies need to learn how to interact with people and other dogs once they have been removed from their puppy pack. Coming into contact with a variety of breeds and sizes of dogs and various ages of people will help your puppy adapt to different situations as he grows up. Socialization is the only way to make him a safe companion while you are out and about together. 

Find a reputable class by asking other dog lovers, your veterinarian, or groomer, or checking with your local pet-supply store. Sign up for a class at a time that will make it easy for you to attend. 

Encourage family members to go with you - especially your kids. Older kids will enjoy the experience and learn about pet care. Plus, they will get to play with and help socialize other puppies. Puppy kindergarten can help the entire family adapt to the responsibility and enjoyment of having a new puppy.

Uncovering the causes of common complaints from new puppy owners

Housebreaking Accidents

Using the bathroom in the house is a time-honored tradition in the puppy world. But, there is hope for your puppy With Positive Reinforcement for using a potty pad inside or going potty outside, its vigilance combined with taking them to relieve themselves every two hours or by crate training to prevent indoor mishaps, your pup will be housetrained in no time. For those unavoidable accidents, be sure to clean thoroughly with a odor neutralizer, or your pup will seek out that spot again. Its important you need to make arrangements for at least 8 weeks to have someone come take your puppy to its potty area every two hours to relieve it self. Then after that they will need away to get to their spot on their own to potty, or someone needs to continue to take them out, but try every three to four hours each time from then on. 

Digging

Digging is a common problem for dog owners. Most dogs dig out of boredom and frustration, so make sure your pup gets plenty of exercise, mental stimulation and affection. If your pooch tends to target a specific area, try burying some of its own feces in the spot, or bury chicken wire to create an unpleasant sensation. 

Some dogs were just born to dig. Terriers, in particular, were bred to tunnel after verminit's hard to fight genetics. The best you can do is supply a soft-earthed digging spot in your backyard and teach your digging dog that this is the proper place to expend that excess energy. Terrier owners recommend building a sandbox, then burying tasty treats to encourage your dog to dig there, instead of your flower garden. 

Nipping

Ouch! Those puppy teeth hurt. Most puppies nip, so it's your job to teach them to control that bite. Littermates will teach each other some bite restrainthard biters are not popular playmatesbut you'll have to expand on that learning once pup is in your home. 

When pup nips, say, "Ow!" in a voice loud enough to startle it. Make the pitch lower if your exclamation seems to provoke more nipping. Give the pup love when the nips stop. Another method is to gently push your fingers farther into the pup's mouth when it nips. It will not like this sensation and quickly associates nipping with an unpleasant feeling. 

Barking

If you've ever lived next door to a barking dog, you know how aggravating this behavior is. Like digging, most dogs bark out of boredom and frustration. The best way to address the problem is provide more exercise, more mental games and more attention. For protective dogs that bark at even innocuous trespassers (like that squirrel crossing the garden), teach the enough command after the alert bark. 

Jumping Up

Ack! Some dogs are chronic jumping beans. It seems that whatever you do, you just can't keep them down. There are many tricks to tackling this problem, but most importantly, never encourage your pup to jump. Really, that pouncing puppy won't miraculously stop jumping at adulthood! Keep greetings low key and squat to pup's level when saying hi. Ask all your guests to do this, too. If pup continues to jump up, simply ignore it until the jumping stops, then lavish your now-calm pup with affection. Attention, even negative, reinforces this behavior.

Running Away

Some breeds are prone to roaming. Step one to avoiding a pup with wanderlustget it neutered. This can do wonders to stop a roaming male. Other ways to discourage your canine traveler: Teach a diehard reliable recall; never, ever chase your dog; provide it with plenty of exercise and mental stimulation; and, if all else fails, invest in a foolproof fence. 

Chewing

Oh, those canine chompers! They'll be the death of pet owners, yet. It's amazing how much destruction those tiny teeth have wrought. No. 1 rule for discouraging chewing: Provide lots of super fun chew toys. Make sure they are toys your pup likes. If it doesn't like plush toys, offer a rope toy or nylon bone. If that doesn't work, get serious with a peanut butter-filled Kong, knucklebone or pig hoof. When you catch pup gnawing on no-chew items, simply remove the item with a firm, calm "no," then offer one of pup's chew toys with a "good dog" when it accepts it.

Pulling on Leash

Unfortunately, pups with this problem often do not receive enough exercise. Even if they do get walks, both owner and pooch are frustrated with their blocks-long battles. 

Accustom your pup to being on a leash right away. Teach it that a loose leash is rewarded with forward movement and that pulling only gets it stuck in one spot. When pup pulls, stop. If pup continues to pull, turn around and walk in another direction. Be consistent with this, and your dog will quickly learn what behavior is rewarded with a pleasurable excursion. 

For pups that continue to pull, try a head halter. The head halter will simply turn the dog around when it tries to pull. As an added benefit, the head halter exerts pressure on the top of the snout, which calms dogs and even decreases aggression. 

Dog-dog Aggression

Socialize is the word of the day! Once dog aggression is established, it's difficult to train it away. Prevent aggression from the start by socializing your pup with dogs of all types, sizes and ages. A pup with plenty of non-threatening, fun and safe canine experiences will usually love other dogs. Don't let your pup pick up on your stress when meeting other dogs. Keep the leash slack and be jolly.

Establish furniture rules from the start and be consistent. If you don't want your puppy on your furniture as an adult, don't allow it on furniture as a pup: This is the key to fur-free furniture. If pup sneaks up onto furniture, simply lift it off with a firm "no,"   

The Chihuahua brain?

Chihuahuas do have a mind of their own, They are not like a large dog, They are extremely intelligent and can even be manipulative. If things are not set right between you, Chihuahua owners will likely find themselves being the ones trained by their clever little companions!

Consistent training, fair guidelines and discipline will not only make your Chihuahua an obedient dog it can even learn cute tricks and even learn when trained to be a service dog and most Chihuahuas are a great pleasure for their owners

REMEMBERING THEIR WEIGHT

The Chihuahua breed is particularly susceptible to the problem of being overweight. Chihuahuas have a tendency to gain weight, not because of anything wrong with them, but because of their owners who over feed them and feel sorry for those cute little faces begging.

Since Chihuahuas are indoor pets, they sometimes lead sedentary lives. Chihuahuas are master at manipulation and can train their owners in no time to feed it all sorts of human snacks and treats. And if you keep feeding your dog whatever it begs for, you're putting a stake right through their tiny little hearts, Obesity in Chihuauhas will lead to coronary heart disease and shorten their lives! As a responsible Chihuahua owner you need to keep a check on its overall diet everyday!

Separation Anxiety

Since Chihuahuas, by nature prefer to cling to one or two persons, they are all the more prone to suffer from Separation Anxiety, Being Chihuahua owners, it is our responsibility to relieve them from all stress they go through when we have to leave them for a few hours at a stretch, the best way to do this is by putting them in a bathroom with water and food and a crate or blanket and toy to lay, or if you have a dog pen you can do the same place them in with food and water and a toy and little blanket.

My Chihuahua Shivers?  Is this because s/he's cold?

Chihuahuas do shiver when they're cold, but they also shiver when they are wary, excited, unhappy, or frightened. This is a
result of having a high metabolism, and is a normal characteristic of the Chihuahua breed, By making your Chihuahua feel safe and well cared for most times you can help them rest easy.

REMEMBER HOW FRAGILE

Chihuahuas have a fragile bone structure. A Chihuahua can be seriously injured or killed if someone accidentally steps on him or sits on him when he's curled under a blanket or pillow. Or, a sudden leap from your arms or off the back of your sofa can even kill the Chihuahua. Owning a Chihuahua means constant supervision and surveillance of what's going on all around it and even more with young kids in the room with your Chihuahua

                    TWO PUPS FROM 2008

All Chihuahuas characterized  by The American Kennel Club  

All Chihuahuas are characterized under the Toy Group and they follow these standards below:

General appearance – a graceful, alert, swift-moving little dog with saucy expression, compact, and with terrier-like qualities of temperament.

weight - a well balanced little dog not to exceed 6 pounds.

proportion – the body is off-square; hence, slightly longer when measured from point of shoulder to point of buttocks, than height at the withers. Some what shorter bodies are preferred in males.

disqualification – any dog over 6 pounds in weight, (they would weigh this dog in the show then disqualify them)

head – a well rounded “apple dome” skull, with or without molera. expression – saucy.

eyes - full, but not protruding, balanced, set well apart-luminous dark or luminous ruby.
(light eyes in blond or white-colored dogs permissible.)

ears - large, erect type ears, held more upright when alert, but flaring to the sides at a 45 degree angle when in repose, giving breadth between the ears.

muzzle – moderately short, slightly pointed. Cheeks and jaws lean.

nose – self-colored in blond types, or black. In moles, blues, and chocolates, they are self-colored. in blond types, pink nose permissible.

bite – level or scissors. overshot or undershot bite, or any distortion of the bite or jaw, should be penalized as a serious fault.

disqualifications – broken down or cropped ears.

neck – slightly arched, gracefully sloping into lean shoulders.

topline – level.

body – ribs rounded and well sprung (but not too much “barrel-shaped”).

tail – moderately long, carried sickle either up or out, or in a loop over the back, with tip just touching the back. (never tucked between legs.)

disqualifications – cropped tail, bobtail.

forequarters

shoulders – lean, sloping into a slightly broadening support above straight forelegs that set well under, giving a free play at the elbows. shoulders should be well up, giving balance and soundness, sloping into a level back. (never down or low.) this gives a chestiness, and strength of forequarters, yet not of the “bulldog” chest.

feet – a small, dainty foot with toes well split up but not spread, pads cushioned. (neither the hare nor the cat foot.)

pasterns – fine.

hindquarters

muscular, with hocks well apart, neither out nor in, well let down, firm and sturdy. the feet are as in front.

coat – in the smooth coats, the coat should be of soft texture, close and glossy. (heavier coats with undercoats permissible.) coat placed well over body with ruff on neck preferred, and more scanty on head and ears. hair on tail preferred furry.

in long coats, the coat should be of a soft texture, either flat or slightly curly, with undercoat preferred.

ears - fringed. (heavily fringed ears may be tipped slightly if due to the fringes and not to weak ear leather, never down.)

tail – full and long (as a plume). feathering on feet and legs, pants on hind legs and large ruff on the neck desired and preferred.

disqualification – in long coats, Too thin coat that resembles bareness.

color - any color-solid, marked or splashed.

gait - the Chihuahua should move swiftly with a firm, sturdy action, with good reach in front equal to the drive from the rear. from the rear, the hocks remain parallel to each other, and the foot fall of the rear legs follows directly behind that of the forelegs. the legs, both front and rear, will tend to converge slightly toward a central line of gravity as speed increases. the side view shows good, strong drive in the rear and plenty of reach in the front, with head carried high. the topline should remain firm and the backline level as the dog moves.

temperament - alert, with terrier-like qualities.

All  disqualifications

• any dog over 6 pounds in weight
• broken down or cropped ears
• cropped tail, bobtail
• in long coats, too thin coat that resembles bareness

Our Source: The American Kennel Club akc.org